Horses can be just as prone to putting on weight as people can and it can be equally hard to get it off again. Equine Obesity in the UK is a very real problem for many horse owners, so naturally, we want to do all we can to help cut the weight and provide our horses with happier, and healthier lives.
It is natural for horses and ponies to put on weight over summer when food is plentiful. Historically, the weight gained during summer months helped sustain horses throughout the cold winter months when, in the wild, they would naturally lose any extra weight due to food scarcity. However, equine domestication means horses have access to an abundance of forage and hard feed, alongside the rugs, shelter and warmth. This over-indulgence we offer our horses often leads to unnecessary weight gain. For some owners, the process is a vicious cycle, so it is vital we keep ourselves educated and on top of any equine weight issues.
So even though it can be difficult to assess how much weight a horse has gained when you see him every day, you must nevertheless pay careful attention to how much they eat. In particular, restrictions to fresh, lush grass should be made, to ensure the horse doesn’t over-indulge and become prone to conditions such as laminitis.
Weigh bridges, tapes and condition scoring can all be used to monitor weight. Read on to find out more about what can be done to help fight equine obesity.
Trickle Feeders: Horses are designed to eat constantly
The horse’s digestive system is designed to function on a constant supply of fibrous material which works to push out gas bubbles that form during the process of digestion and fermentation. If a horse is given less food to eat the accumulated gas can cause painful distension of the gut and colic. Withholding feed can also lead to hyperlipidaemia (high cholesterol). Another unwanted consequence of reducing the food supply could be the development of stereotypical behaviour like crib-biting, weaving or wind-sucking, all of which could be a by-product of excessive acidity in the gut due to reduced chewing. If a horse is not chewing he is not producing the saliva needed to neutralise any acidity. Ulcers and general discomfort can result from excess acidity; just one of the reasons to ensure your horse has a constant supply of chewable fibre.
Develop a regular weight reduction strategy
If your horse is a good doer you will have something of a challenge on your hands when it comes to formulating a weight reduction and maintenance plan. Unlike humans, who can lose weight by simply not eating for a while, a horse should never be starved but should be given a constant supply, at least every few hours, of gut-healthy fibre. Essential vitamins can also be provided by feeding pelleted supplements or high fibre, low calorie, sugar and starch feed. For weight loss you should not give below 1.5% of the fibre ration or for weight maintenance aim for no less than 2-2.5%.
Restrict grazing
When a horse is on grass it is almost impossible to monitor his intake so you should consider alternatives like strip grazing or using a grazing muzzle to significantly reduce intake. If using a grazing muzzle for the first time start him off with short periods and gradually increase the time the horse wears it. Don’t leave it on all the time though and supervise him until you’re sure he accepts the muzzle without problems.
Turnout in sand paddocks with soaked hay can be a way to offer your horse freedom, without allowing for an over indulgence in rich grass.
Forage as an alternative source of fibre
If you’re restricting access to grass you will need to give fibre in other ways. Soaked hay is a good alternative source of fibre but it has fewer nutrients so it is advisable to also feed a pelleted balancer. These are a good way of providing the right nutritional balance of protein, essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals but without excess calories. Balancers are designed to be given in small quantities, either on their own or with a low-calorie chaff. The amino acids in these are essential for the building and maintenance of good bone, muscle and hair plus a decent quality balancer will contain ‘digestive enhancers’ such as yeast culture and prebiotics. As these are meant to be fed in small quantities, typically around 100g per 100kg of bodyweight, their starch content is nothing to worry about. And if you are worrying whether or not you should feed your horse a handful of mix or cubes you should consider that these provide too few vitamins and minerals with too many calories.
If you favour hay forage as an alternative fibre source it is advised that you have it analysed to determine the levels of water-soluble carbohydrate (WSC) and starch, to assess its suitability for your horse. Ideally this should show a WSC level of less than 10%. You could use coarser hay which is naturally lower in WSC but soaking it for 12-16 hours should reduce the content. However be aware that this can reduce the palatability and in warm weather can increase fermentation or bacterial growth.
General tips when providing an obese horse with hay, include:
- Soaking hay to remove excess (and unwanted) sugar
- Give ad-lib hay throughout the day to help prevent the horse from gorging on what it has been given, then left for hours without any feed
- Weigh your hay prior to netting, balance out portions throughout the day (ad-lib, as above)
- Ask a nutritionist for advice of the amount of hay or percentage of forage according to bodyweight
- DO NOT feed haylage due to excessively high sugar content
Keep tabs on weight loss progress
As any vet will tell you it’s important to know a horse’s exact weight in order to measure accurate dosages of wormer. It’s difficult to measure weight-loss progress by sight alone so you should ideally have a weigh-tape handy if you don’t have access to a weighbridge. Use this at the same time every day, ideally weekly, and try to take a reading as the horse exhales for accuracy. If the horse is on grass part-time make sure you take a measurement reading before he goes out to graze.
Another way of assessing his weight is by actually feeling for fat deposits, a more effective method than simply looking at him. The easiest way to assess fat levels is by dividing the horse into three parts to determine his fat score – the neck and shoulders, the middle and the hindquarters. You can then work out an average score. If you are not sure how to do this then take a look at the Blue Cross and World Horse Welfare websites where you can find excellent instructions.
The importance of exercise
As any human dieter knows, the best way to lose weight and keep it off is by eating less and exercising more. And by putting your horse through an exercise programme you are sure to benefit just as much as he will. However, it is advised that you build up any exercise routine carefully and gradually and work within the limits of the horse’s fitness level to avoid injury to him. If the horse is unable to be ridden you can always devise a series of in-hand exercises, either walking out on a long rein at a fairly brisk pace – if he can take it – or do some lunge work.
Final words
Whatever you decide to do, take advice from your vet before making any drastic changes to your horse’s diet. Remember that slow and steady consistency will bring the best results for you and your horse.
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Suzanne Ashton, Founder of Everything Horse (Est, 2012), has a BA Hons in Marketing Management and a Diploma in Equine Science. Suzanne has ridden and owned horses all her life and has twelve years of experience in marketing, writing, design, SEO, and website creation.